Brands To Inspire

Here’s a quick look at a style I personally love and aspire to reflect In my work. As I’ve already mentioned in the past, I have a love of simple clean design. A Minimalist approach from how I dress my own home interiors to clothing myself everyday.
In my own wardrobe I only buy simple items of clothing, no logos, no branding and very little pattern. Some of my favourite pieces I have had for a long time, because of their simplicity they never age or go out of fashion.
One of my tips is to buy quality timeless items and mix them with highstreet on trend pieces that are very much of the season. This allows you to pep up your look, keeping it fresh and current but remaining very much true to a simplistic design.

I’m going to highlight two brands that I personally adore. Ever look through a campaign or lookbook and the photography and styling makes you just want to eat it?
These two brands do this to me everytime. The womens and menswear these labels create are elegant, yet beautifully tailored and strong. Their campaigns are slick, easy viewing and completely uncompromised in the message the labels are trying to evoke.

Everlane
Created in 2010 by a chap called Michael Preysman, Everlane was created from the passion to push boundaries and challenge convention.
Everlanes main brand focus is to create luxury quality items but at low high street costs.
If you visit their webpage it explains in further detail how they cut out the middleman, crafting the design of their own product and maintain a direct relationship with artisan craftspeople and factory’s all over the world.

GQ “The company designs and produces
all of its own goods so you, the
customer, get to save a good chunk
of dough on buying some cool stuff.”

So, to the important part of why Everlane as a brand has made such an impression on me and my styling. Firstly their webpage. It’s clean, well proportioned and one of the reasons why their costs are low (purely an e-commerce company).
It’s a bright, airy webpage that let’s the products do the talking, it reflects their clothing and ethos as a brand.

The clothing
I think Everlane is the grown up, better considered version of Gap or Uniqlo. Simple whites, greys and beautiful tailoring. They specialise in holy grail items, and do them well.
Think less is more. Less is beautiful.

And the presentation of the Styling and Photography is simplistic, light and airy. It’s strong, and also attainable. This is another key point as to why Everlane is such a successful venture, to the consumer it doesn’t judge. It doesn’t pigeon hole. They genuinely create fashion that would be accepted across the board, any age, any shape. It’s a simple, well crafted product that has been styled to perfection, evoking appeal and an effortless look.

Toast
A British brand, based in Wales, Toast is equally another favourite. A mail order and E-Commerce label, offering high end luxury womens, men’s and home wear. These are a little higher in the price spectrum, but again pride themselves on creating products of the highest quality. I own a few of their designs, from trousers to dresses and t-shirts. The difference in not only the quality and weight of the fabric but also the attention to the cut cannot be matched by a highstreet product.

Their webpage
Toast and Everlanes websites are very similar, modular and simplistic in style.

However, this may be more down to the fact that this style is very much in Digital Vogue at the moment. For example French Connection have a completely different target consumer yet their website is again very similar in design.

Clothing
Toast have an ethos not far from Everlane, but they have combined it with an ethnic influence. Think a well dressed, well travelled woman. Their items of clothing often impose the thought that they are Jewels and one off finds with their clever quirks and perfect ‘flaws’ present in handmade fabrics and embellishments.

Styling approach
What I love about Toast is that they have stayed true to their ethos and roots. How often have other brands swayed with their product and design message? In all of Toasts lookbooks and campaigns you will find carefully considered and beautifully shot images in far flung places, to co-incide with this worn-in well travelled appeal.

Toast presents a label that is effortless and oozes appeal to a generation that want that easy, just threw it on chic look yet using luxurious materials and high quality pattern cutting.

So, next time you are thinking of buying an ‘obvious’ highstreet purchase, consider these two labels and buy an item that will not only stand a thousand washes, but also a thousand trends.

To buzz-cut, or not to buzz-cut

All tongues have been wagging over the last day or so about a controversial shoot.
Gisele is one of the worlds foremost recognisable faces, usually sporting golden hair.

The Brazilian beauty has featured in a shoot for Balenciaga without her trademark blonde locks.

That’s right, she’s done a Sinead O’Connor.

Or a Natalie Portman

Balenciaga artistic director Alexander Wang talks about the campaign:

“This is how I see Gisele for Balenciaga; strong, powerful, mysterious and uncompromising. This season we worked with this idea of vanity, staged in a room filled with mirrors. But the cracked mirror is a continuing thread from the marble veins and creeping ivy leaves from seasons past.”

Her hair was styled by Anthony Turner. Makeup by Diane Kendal.

I personally think that a short haircut on a woman is a striking look, and one that can emphasise the features of a beautiful person. But would this haircut (if real) limit Giseles appeal and work? She is world-renowned, a brand in her own right. But is a shaved head going to alter this?

The jury is still out on this look. As is whether she actually took the buzz cut plunge…or whether it’s just a wig and photoshop trickery.

Patterns of 2014

Just a quick look at a widely popular pattern over the course of 2014.
Watercolour has been seen right across the board, from fashion to interiors and prints.

Breaking away from strong graphic prints, derivatives from the wishy-washy watercolour is set to stay for a while.
Examples include high end brands such as Jil Sander

Through to this print from US label Nasty Gal

And offerings from bank

This trend seems to be heavily influenced whilst running parallel with an everlasting obsession with tie dye, especially through the summer festival months.
We will be seeing the tie dye progress in style and combine almost with the watercolour and ombré influences landing on Batique and linea patterns like this Bank example.

Or pared down design sourced from Harpers Bazaar

Personally, I do like all the trends. I appreciate the fresh inspiration the watercolour technique has brought to fashion and interior prints over the course of the year. I feel this fluidity adds an organic feel to the sometimes forced ombré seen over 2012/2013. I think all three can be strengthened with each other’s approach, adding a more natural look to tie dye, a new turn on the exhausted dip dye and trend the sometimes overlooked watercolour appearance.

My idea generation process

This is just a quick blog post to show how I get the most from my planning and idea generation pre-shoot as both a Photographer and a Stylist.
A lot of the time when booked as a Stylist the idea generation and general look of the shoot has been pre determined by Art Direction.
Sometimes though I get to add my own input early on in the brief, and a part of the process I feel is one of my strong points as a creative.
This process can be adapted to when your hired solely for the shoot, to get a flow for the style you wish to go with, or just as a means of research into the subject or brand you are working with.

The one I am going to share is one that was using me to both style and shoot.
I start by breaking my research into three areas. Moodboard and existing trends, hair and make-up (this was requested for this particular brief) and logistics.

Moodboard

Clear labelling is key for something like this, I like to present my boards in way that if someone in my team was to pick them up they could decipher the information easily and without explanation.
I look at creative sources online, blogs, In magazines etc for ideas on current trends. I collect clippings etc on a daily basis that I like the look of and keep for future reference. Getting all of my theme and desired palette down in one place is a great way of deciding where you want to go with this and helps with my thought process.

Hair and Make up
As I said this was a particular request for this brief. I normally comment on Hair and Makeup as part of the larger moodboard, again looking at existing trends. It’s imperative to consider hair even if you are using a freelance Hair and Makeup artist, to relay the decided style and keep the look together. It’s easy to stray if the brief doesn’t include thought for everybody.

Logistics
This is the main body. I like to look at location, set options, model positioning along with giving thought to lighting and equipment to be used as well as the overall edit. Usually this area is determined by the Photographer if I am hired as a stylist, but with my background knowledge it gives me an advantage. Allowing me to style around the consideration of the Photography team making their job easier.

As I said this is just a brief look Into the process I have adopted pre-shoot. Each brief is different as is my role capacity within each individual project. But breaking your workload into different areas and analysing them separately has worked well for me, helping to create strong, considered work.

Preparation is key, and makes for an easier, less stressful shoot all round.

Prep has graduated

The dapper gentleman style is well and truly in full swing. A grown up continuation from the prep look seen around 2 years ago, this is a manly yet metro way of dressing.
As mentioned in an earlier post male grooming and more specifically the beard has had a huge impact on men’s fashion of late. This increase in facial hair and style options evokes a transgression to a Victorian era of moustache wax and fine tooth combs.
The well kept beard has been matched with equally well decided items of clothing. Ryan Gosling is an exemplary model of this trend. Well chosen, tailored items, with a nostalgic and gentlemanly appeal.

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Grooming
Firstly as already touched on, decide if a beard is for you. It has to be well maintained. Bum fluff needn’t apply. A smart, neat haircut is also the opitomy of this look. Variations include slicked back, parted or a close back and sides. The Hair is what defines your ultimate gentleman category…preppy or more of a street variation.

The shirt
A fail safe for both men and women. A carefully considered shirt really is a wonder garment. It’s a refreshing change to see a smartly dressed man In a shirt yet still wonderfully on trend.
You can stay quite traditional or venture with your fabrics as shown with this denim shirt from Tom Ford’s 2015 collection.

Mismatch
If your not ready for the suit whole-hog you can break it up to wear casually yet with equal effectiveness.
Match a blazer with an alternative chino or jean. By breaking away from a matching suit you can also play around with additional layers which may Look out of place otherwise.

Footwear
The brogue has been massive of late, and this gentleman look is the ideal opportunity to wear a more sophisticated, grown-up item of footwear.
I personally think a conker or saddle shade of Brogue is a failsafe. Keeping with the traditional of a Brogue but in a colour that goes with everything. Another referral to not wearing black with colour.
Personal favourites are either this investment pair from Loake or this delicious offering from Paul Smith that successfully merges the leather with sack-cloth and linen textures.

Last year and the year before we saw a nod to all things marine and ocean going, with the rolled trouser and deck shoe being a large player.

This approach has also graduated with the gentleman look, socks and a roll on a trouser seem to match Brogues effortlessly, so show your personality and a dash of colour with a well paired sock.

For avid sock lovers head over to Sock Club London, an amazing Blog dedicated to the best socks the industry has to offer.

The finishing touches
To bring it all together a firm favourite seems to be a pocket square.

And also a traditionally faced gentlemans watch, in a strap that will both match and emphasise your brogues beautifully.

I personally find this style a happy one. A nod to times gone by, and a look that represents an era when thought and consideration was put into an ensemble.
The reverse of today’s effortless look.

Five golden rules of styling

Ok, so I’m not professing to be Rachel Zoe when I’m dishing out these five golden rules. I’m not perfect, and I think it takes more than applying the below to become successful at this game.
However these are things I’ve picked up from working with different teams, both styling and shooting.

So, not in any particular order.

1. Be punctual.
This goes without saying in any job, but this rule is especially prevalent for a freelancer.
When styling a large proportion of your time will go to product prepping, be it removing all signs of fluff from the most static black jumper you have ever seen….to tissue stuffing a pair of finniky junior jeans.
I always like to get to a shoot or booking at LEAST forty-five minutes before. This depends on whether your familiar with their shoot style and schedule. Sometimes it’s best to err even more on the side of caution.
Why do I need to be there before the time I’m booked for?
We’ll for starters it looks professional. You look eager, hardworking and ready for the day. It gives you time to prep your rail, and get all your steaming and de-linting out of the way.
Think of your team
The photographer can’t start their day with the lighting or even first shot until your garment is prepped and placed on the mannequin/model.
If you stroll in at 9, my guessing is you won’t start shooting until 10. Being shoot ready with your product is a huge bonus, it will keep you sweet with the photographer and give you that extra time if any re-shoots are needed. It’s best to be early and waiting for everybody else than the other way around.

Be there early, it will pay you back three-fold by way of future bookings.

2.Location
Google maps. Use it. On a Sunday I like to prep my week ahead, make sure all travel tickets have been booked, review my schedule and make notes of ALL the postcodes I’m visiting. Know where you are going, there’s nothing worse than getting lost. And there’s nothing more embarrassing than having to explain to a new team you have just met that you didn’t know where you were going!

3.Don’t complain
Styling is hard. It’s a tough, yet rewarding gig.
You have been bent over styling Still-Life flat images all day, at 4.10 an urgent batch arrives that need shooting before home time.
Your in a hot stuffy studio, and all you want to do is call it a day. It’s easy to grumble at this extra rail. But don’t. Whatever you do never complain to your team because it’s very likely that they feel exactly the same. Moaning isn’t going to get you anywhere. It looks unprofessional and that you aren’t in this game for the long haul. Get your head down, and get on with it.
Life’s shit, and styling is a bitch.

4.Big knickers save the day
This rule applies to when I’m both photographing and also styling.
The vast majority of your day you will be bent over; Scrambling around, sorting equipment, or lifting and carrying. Generally studios are small, cramped spaces where there’s a lot of ducking and diving with other team members.
So do them a favour and wear a decent pair of knickers. Sexy lace thongs needn’t apply to this position.
I’m talking about big, cover everything period panties. Nobody, and I mean nobody wants to see your crack 30 times a day. And I promise you if you fail to heed my warning, by the end of a long hard shift you will be sick of pulling up your jeans to keep your modesty.
The same goes for bras. I’m generously, yet annoyingly proportioned in this department, and there’s nothing worse than everything spilling out every time you go to pin a garment.

Wear comfy, smart items that serve the purpose.

5.Try to be memorable
As a freelancer, it’s sometimes hard to stand out from the crowd. You may be booked last minute, brought in to cover, sometimes just for the day. This makes it hard to connect with your colleagues, and form a good working relationship.
It’s a simple tip, but I like to take in a batch of cupcakes or a bag of haribo. It’s a small offering, but gets the group talking. It gives you an excuse to go around a few people, say hi….and people always remember the person who brings in the sweet treats.

I’m sure I’ll think of other tips as I go, so will revisit this post at a later date. But I hope these pointers help you out when freelancing, and make joining a new team a success…and a little easier.

Sale! Sale! Sale!

Just a recent purchase that was at a bargain price. The Nike Roshe runner has been one of the most popular women’s trainer since 2011. It’s a simple zen like design, which goes with everything. If like me, you like the idea of wearing a trainer, especially when on your feet during long tiring shoots the Roshe is a reliable, fail safe.

Nikes approach to creating the shoe

“Inspired by the practice of meditation and the concept of Zen, the Nike Roshe Run epitomises simplicity. It has no embellishments, just basic shoe necessities brought to life with every detail. Almost every part of the shoe reflects an aspect of a tranquil Zen garden: a modified Waffle outsole made to look like stepping stones, an insole that mirrors a raked rock garden, and slightly different midsole side lengths-a juxtaposition of seriousness and playfulness.”

For an interesting read on how the concept of the Roshe was born read here.

The Roshe is available in a number of colours, In a pattern that evokes memory’s of the colour blindness test cards.

From basic colour coordinates through to collaborations with Iconic Liberty prints.

The design I went with, backs up my theory of no colour with black. I have purchased black trainers In the past, and when combining an outfit using colour they always seemed to be left of the shelf. A favourite pair of Adidas zx8000 Only ever get to tread the pavement when worn with all black.

I didn’t want that to be the case with a beautiful pair of Roshe. I went with the orange and grey, simple yet lively colour combination which works well with the lightweight design and canvas uppers of this shoe.

And the major coo being the price, purchased 20/6/14 from Offspring for £45. A B&W design was also spotted on sale with JdSports for £47, however at the time of writing It seems these sale items are store only on selected designs.

So for the ‘go with everything trainer’ that’s got a ladylike appeal opposite to more cumbersome sports fashion shoes available, I heavily recommend the Roshe. I see it’s continued success via new and refreshed prints throughout the seasons to come.

The nineteen-nineties are back!

Recently, trends I can remember from my school days have been haunting me. Not flashback memories. No no. On the high street, walking around on the 16 year olds of today. Its that horrible point in time when you realise trends have made the full loop around and are back to bite your old, sorry backside.

Items are generally revived as part of a ‘vintage influence’ 20 years from their original appearance, which takes us to 1994. The trends that I recognise this summer seem to be breaking this rule as they are a little later.

So here’s my top 5 of my ‘Tammy Girl’ inspired revivals.

1. Elastic Chokers

I’ve seen plastic,elastic chokers dotted about over the last month or two, part of this long grunge revival we seem to be experiencing.

2.Another is the platform trainer…or bubble shoes as I lovingly called them.

This style of footwear is the natural progression from the flatform shoe and the healed trainer both prevalent 2012 & 2013.

3. Tartan, plaid…it’s the same thing
I doubt that check shirts will be disappearing from the fashion staple realms anytime soon. Again, it has been widely seen during the grunge revival of the past year or so. Think Nirvana 1992.

4. The Backpack

The small backpack, sometimes with a twin zip strap that becomes two. I remember having several of these. I just hope the clear plastic blow up ones don’t come back, for the sake of humanity.

5. The Scrunchie
A throw back from the early eighties before I was even born. I can remember making dozens of scrunchies when I was younger, most of the time to co-ordinate with a bag I had also made. Dreadful!

So it seems the general 20 year vintage rule has been broken. But happily, I have a feeling that these items are more of a flash In the style pan. Here for a short while before they are digging up more fashion crimes from the Tammy Girl archives.

Long live the Beard

The beard. It’s everywhere. Smooth has been a firm, yet laborious favourite in Men’s daily grooming habits. However, it seems the trend gods are in your favour.
Put down your razors. Stop bowing to the 5 o’clock shadow.
The beard has fast become the firm favourite on a mans style check list, with a plethora of variations. From a bit of stubble, a big bushy one or a quirky handle-bar moustache. It seems anything goes, and that the partnership between style and a strong growth of facial hair is set to be a long, happy one.